The Haynes Used Car Buying Guide
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This setup was the industry standard for decades. Eventually, this $100 deductible power train coverage was bumped up to 36 months or 36,000 miles. Later, as manufacturers began to view the warranty as a marketing device, they added the term bumper to bumper, usually for the length of 36/36,000. A bumper-to-bumper warranty included all the items covered in the initial 12/12,000 warranty, but it included a $100 deductible.
The terms of standard warranties on today’s cars are longer than ever, both in miles and months. When you shop for a used vehicle, look closely at the actual written terms of the standard warranty. If it’s still in effect, it should cover everything, including the power train, cosmetic things such as interior and exterior trim, and all electrical devices and systems. It should also include a corrosion warranty, which covers all damage caused by rust. A competitive power train warranty should be at least 5 years or 50,000 miles, and some manufacturers are even going to 7/70,000. Look for warranty coverage (sometimes as much as 100,000 miles) protecting the finish and/or the body from corrosion, rust and environmental fallout (rail dust, smog, factory emissions, acid rain, etc.).
When you’re buying a used vehicle, ask the seller to show you the actual written terms of any warranty that came with the vehicle when it was new. Ask him whether you have any options, such as a choice between a higher-mileage warranty with a deductible versus an all-inclusive bumper-to-bumper warranty with no deductible, but shorter terms.
http://vancouverusedautos.com/
Car Carrier Kenora Ontario Canada
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Manufacturer’s Standard Warranties
At one time, the standard manufacturer’s warranty was 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever came first. If anything broke during the first year of operation, it was fixed free of charge. There was no deductible. After the initial time or mileage was exceeded, the warranty covered the “powertrain” (engine, transmission/transaxle, driveline, differential, rear axle, and transfer case, if equipped) up to 24 months or 24,000 miles. There was usually a $100 deductible. This setup was the industry standard for decades. Eventually, this $100 deductible powertrain coverage was bumped up to 36 months or 36,000 miles. Later, as manufacturers began to view the warranty as a marketing device, they added the term bumper to bumper, usually for the length of 36/36,000. A bumper-to-bumper warranty included all the items covered in the initial 12/12,000 warranty, but it included a $100 deductible.
The terms of standard warranties on today’s cars are longer than ever, both in miles and months. When you shop for a used vehicle, look closely at the actual written terms of the standard warranty. It it’s still in effect, it should cover everything, including the powertrain, cosmetic things such as interior and exterior trim, and all electrical devices and systems. It should also include a corrosion warranty, which covers all damage caused by rust. A competitive powertrain warranty should be at least 5 years or 50,000 miles, and some manufacturers are even going to 7/70,000. Look for warranty coverage (sometimes as much as 100,000 miles) protecting the finish and/or the body from corrosion, rust and environmental fallout (rail dust, smog, factory emissions, acid rain, etc.)
When you’re buying a used vehicle, ask the seller to show you the actual written terms of any warranty that came with the vehicle when it was new. Ask him whether you have any options, such as a choice between a higher-mileage warranty with a deductible versus an all-inclusive bumper-to-bumper warranty with no deductible, but shorter terms.
http://vancouverusedautos.com/
Car Carrier Kenora Ontario Canada
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Implied Warranties Only
The term “IMPLIED WARRANTIES ONLY” means that the dealer does not make any specific promises to fix anything (even things that need to be repaired) when you buy the vehicle or after the time of the sale. But, state law “Implied warranties” may give you some rights to have the dealer take care of serious problems that were not apparent when you bought the vehicle.
http://vancouverusedautos.com/
Car Carrier Kenora Ontario Canada
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Warranty
The term “WARRANTY” means that the dealer will pay some percent of the labor and some percent of the parts for the covered systems that fail during the warranty period. Ask the dealer for a copy of the warranty document for a full explanation of warranty coverage, exclusions, and the dealer’s repair obligations. Under the law, “Implied warranties” may give you even more rights.
http://vancouverusedautos.com/
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As Is
The term “AS IS” constitutes a denial of warranty coverage, except in Connecticut, Massachusetts, Minnesota, New York, and Rhode Island where dealers must warranty all but the oldest, cheapest cars. You will pay all costs for any repairs. The dealer assumes no responsibility for any repairs regardless of any oral statements about the vehicle.
http://vancouverusedautos.com/
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The Used Car Rule and the FTC Buyers Guide label
In 1985, the federal government passed a law known as the Used Car Rule. The Rule, which is enforced by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), requires that every used car sold by a dealer must have a “Buyer’s Guide” label with pertinent warranty information on one of its windows. The FTC produces this window sticker, which states whether a warranty is included with the car, what type of warranty it is, and other information required under the Used Car Rule. It also warns that all promises should be in writing. The Buyers Guide actually serves as part of the official sales contract. Inspect the Buyers Guide label closely. There are three boxes: “AS IS – NO WARRANTY,” “WARRANTY,” and “IMPLIED WARRANTIES ONLY.”
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Warranties
A warranty repair is any work done on a vehicle at a dealership facility under the terms listed in the owner’s manual. Many times, there’s no charge for the work done, but there may be modest deductible once the specified mileage or time limit has been exceeded. Warranties have changed dramatically since their inception, from the standard “12 months or 12,000 miles” (12/12) to the long-term, comprehensive protection currently offered by manufacturers. As new-vehicle prices continue to climb, customer demands have pushed manufacturers to provide better and better product coverage.
Warranty coverage can be confusing on vehicles that are leased, sold or traded. The general rule here is that warranty coverage stays with the vehicle, not with the owner. For awhile, some manufacturers insisted on a “transfer fee,” but most of them have since changed their policies in an effort to improve customer satisfaction. When buying a used vehicle, you should know that any remaining factory warranty coverage (but not aftermarket “service contracts” or extended warranties) still applies to the vehicle regardless of a change in ownership. But be aware that while warranty coverage may still exist, transfer of the warranty must be completed before it goes into effect.
Unlike a new car, a used vehicle is no longer protected by a manufacturer’s warranty, if it has reached the time limit of the mileage limit specified under the terms of the original warranty. However, some new-car buyers purchase an extended warranty, which may still be in effect at the time the car is sold to a second owner. Such warranties may be transferable, but there’s often a fee. Always ask the original owner about the terms of coverage, spelled out in both the manufacturer’s standard and extended warranties.
All new vehicles now come with a federally-mandated, extended emissions warranty which covers virtually every fuel, ignition and emission component. This warranty is generally longer than the manufacturer’s warranty.
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Check the belts, hoses and filters
Again, the checks are repetitive of your previous detailed inspection, but the professional mechanic may notice something you missed. An experienced mechanic is better qualified to inspect the sometimes confusing array of emission system hoses found on today’s modern automobile. Often emissions system hoses are disconnected or missing and in many States must be brought back to factory specifications before the vehicle can be registered.
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Description of Professional Tests Underhood checks:Check the fluids and fluid levels
Basically these are the same checks we have suggested the buyer make in the previous topics, but the professional mechanic can make such checks quicker and with an experienced eye. He is looking for any fluid leaks and checking the “quality” of the fluids, looking at the color, smell and content of the car’s fluids, anything that might hint to a possible problem area.
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The Haynes Used Car Buying Guide
Your thoroughness may have uncovered problems the seller probably wasn’t aware of. In fact, if a private party or dealer seems reluctant to have you make a thorough examination and have the vehicle further tested by a mechanic, assure them that they may have a copy of any checklists or reports on the vehicle’s condition. A printed report, prepared at your expense, might prove of benefit to the seller in remedying apparent problems and making their car more appealing. The cost of having a full diagnostic check made by a professional is relatively inexpensive compared to the potential costs of buying a defective vehicle. Because of the expense, we recommend you proceed with this last step in the inspection process only after you have made your own inspection and test-drive, and are fairly certain this is the right car at the right price for you going in.
Be aware that a mechanic who’s looking for work may be motivated to encourage the purchase, even when the vehicle has problems. Remember that the actual purchase decision must be yours. The mechanic is simply providing technical information and a cost estimate to repair the vehicle, which is the information you need to ultimately negotiate the purchase price of the vehicle.
For convenience, we suggest that you photocopy the checklist at the end of this chapter for your mechanic’s reference. The glossary associated with this checklist explains briefly each of the mechanic’s tests, and we have included a photo sequence of a professional mechanic performing many of the tests and inspections we have described. As stated earlier, it may not be necessary for your mechanic to perform all of these tests, you and your mechanic will decide which tests may be excluded.
Tip:
If you have reason to suspect the mileage shown on the odometer may not be accurate, ask the mechanic to also give his assessment – professionals know tell-tale signs to look for that can indicate fraudulent mileage readings.
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